I have included a cover to allow a connector at the probe but the wire management will be less than ideal.Īfter pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. When installed the wires will route out from the back of the IR probe cover to then join with the hotend and fan wires.
I strongly recommend removing the 3-pin header and soldering wires directly to the probe PCB. The Y-offset for this probe is 4mm in front of the nozzle and the X-offset is 32mm. The IR Probe needs to be screwed into place with two M2.5x8 FHCS before installing any of the fans, except with the VolcoMosq or UHF hotends where the probe needs to be glued on with CA glue. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits'Īll three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. I recommend using a file to lightly remove any printing artifacts on the mating face of the shroud. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow mounting the Beacon3D probe, Euclid or Biqu MicroProbe for a V2.4, Trident or Switchwire. I have removed the mechanical Z endstop on my V0.1 and use the IR probe as an endstop and it has greatly simplified my homing sequence. This toolhead also has versions that allow mounting a differential IR sensor. stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud. The nozzle is moved up by 3mm compared to the official Switchwire due to the stepper motor being so low on the Orbiter extruder but this also allows a BL-Touch to fit into the x-frame pieces. There are also x-frame pieces that allow this Mini Stealth to be installed on a Switchwire.
There is a separate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. This Orbiter 2.0 Mini Stealth is a better fit than the Orbiter 1.5 Mini Stealth in a V2.4 or Trident as the motor no longer interferes with the path of the cable chain. The shroud fits a 3010 hotend fan or a 3007 fan by using a clip-in adapter. I have raised my tophat by 20mm which gives the cabling and filament tube plenty of room to breathe. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The Mini Stealth uses a pair of 4010 blowers which produce more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The negative body feature of Prusa/Super Slicer can also be used to create a crop-top version of the shroud as described at the end of the tutorial.
#Orbiter extruder wiring how to#
There are now two hex pattern inlays based on the design by 3DP-MAMSIH and a tutorial on how to apply them to the shroud. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment.
The UHF hotends will reduce Z travel by 8.5mm and the VolcoMosq by 3mm. The Dragon UHF and Rapido UHF hotends can fit in the same shroud. I have added new stretched versions that should fit the Rapido UHF, Dragon UHF and the VolcoMosq hotends. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility.
#Orbiter extruder wiring pro#
It is designed around the Orbiter 2.0 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as versions for the Mosquito, the Revo Voron and the Creality Spider Pro hotends. Fully assembled it weighs about 110 grams less than the original. This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1/V0.2.
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